Remodeling a closet door opening is a fairly straightforward project involving standard materials and techniques. But before you make any changes to the existing framing, make sure the wall containing the opening is non-load-bearing. A load-bearing wall will have a large beam, or header, across the top of the opening; this is often made with two pieces of 2-inch dimension lumber with a plywood spacer in between. A non-load-bearing wall typically has a 2-by-4 laid flat across the closet opening. Consult a qualified professional if you're not sure what type of wall you have. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Remove any closet door hardware, then remove the drywall and/or trim boards around the inside of the opening, using a hammer and flat pry bar. Make sure there are no wiring, plumbing or other utility lines in the wall around the opening.
2. Measure and mark lines onto both faces of the wall to represent the finished sides of the new opening. Extend the lines up to the ceiling, and use a level to make sure the lines are plumb. Cut through the drywall along the lines, using a drywall saw or reciprocating saw. Remove the drywall inside the cuts, all the way up to the ceiling.
3. Mark the top of the finished opening onto all of the studs surrounding the existing opening. Make a second set of marks 1 1/2 inches above the first marks; this is where you will cut the studs (the 1 1/2 inches accounts for the thickness of the 2-by-4 header laid flat).
4. Cut off the studs along the top of the opening at the upper marks, using a reciprocating saw. Cut through the bottom plates on either side of the opening at the marks representing the finished sides of the new opening. Remove the plate pieces and any studs inside the cuts.
5. Cut two new 2-by-4 studs to fit between the top and bottom wall plates at the sides of the new opening (or use the old studs if they're in good condition), using a circular saw or power miter saw. Slip each stud between the existing drywall panels, and fasten the studs to the bottom and top wall plates, using 2 1/2-inch coarse-thread drywall screws.
6. Cut a 2-by-4 header to fit snugly between the side studs. Position the header between the side studs so its bottom face is flush with the lower layout marks made in Step 3. Fasten the header to the studs with three 2 1/2-inch drywall screws at each end, driving the screws at an angle through the ends of the header and into the studs.
7. Cut new drywall panels to fit between the existing panels, using a utility knife and a straight edge. Fasten the drywall to the studs and plates with 1 1/4-inch drywall screws. If desired, cover the insides of the opening with drywall.
8. Finish the drywall seams with drywall joint tape and all-purpose joint compound. If desired, add trim around the opening, as before.
Tags: drywall screws, sides opening, 2-by-4 header, around opening, between existing, between side