If you are converting your attic into a living space, you will likely want to include some closet space in the design. The best time to plan for this is during the initial construction, as you will be able to design a closet that can be fitted easily under the roof rafters at the center of the attic. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Using the chalk line and measuring tape, lay out the area of your closet on the floor of the attic. For simplicity, the closet should be a square or rectangular shape with the front door facing the ridgeline of the attic. The width of the attic area should line up so the end pieces fall directly under two rafters. This will make the framing job much easier. Make sure the front height is at least 7 feet and that the back wall is at least 4 feet high. Width is optional, but the wider your closet is, the more practical and useful it will be.
2. Cut and nail the 2-by-4s to the floor to form the outline of your closet. Make sure the front and back pieces are nailed to the floor joists, and don't forget to allow for a front door; you don't want to sink any nails through the bottom plate inside the door opening. Having the bottom plates for the side walls line up on top of a joist is helpful but not essential. Placing the side wall under a roof rafter is more important.
3. Cut away the part of the front plate that you need for the closet door opening. Make the cut with a circular saw and set the depth, so it is just as deep as the 2-by-4 is thick. Remove this piece.
4. Nail the front and back top plate directly to the rafters. Make sure they are the same length as the bottom plates. Then use a 4-foot level and a long 2-by-4 to find the exact location for each top plate. Nail these two boards directly to the roof rafters with framing nails.
5. Build the front and back wall with 2-by-4s. The bottom end should be cut square with a carpenter's square, but you will need a bevel gauge to measure and mark the top ends. Once the pieces are cut, nail all the vertical pieces and use standard 16-inch spacing for the vertical wall members.
6. Fill in the side walls with 2-by-4s. Notched them at the top to fit around the rafters. Make sure that each piece is plumb in both directions and that the notch at the top of each stud leaves each piece plumb.
7. Frame in for the front door opening. Cut one vertical piece for each side of the door first. Use the bevel gauge to get the right angle for the top cut and then square the bottom end at exactly the right length to form the sides of the opening. Then cut a horizontal piece to form the top edge of the opening. This piece will have two square ends and be installed with nails after the vertical pieces are in place. Then cut two vertical pieces at exactly the same size as the previous studs. These go right next to the other pieces to form a double post. Add some cripples on top of the horizontal 2-by-4 and you have your rough opening for the closet.
8. Place a light fixture in the center of the ceiling, if you want a light in the closet. Have an electrician connect it to the main power supply.
9. Cover the inside walls and ceiling with sheet rock or paneling. If you use sheetrock, finish it with joint compound and then paint it.
10. Put the door jamb in place. Then the door(s) are ready to be hung.
11. Cover the outside walls and add the door trim. Clamshell molding makes a nice and simple way to frame around the door opening.
12. Nail two pieces of a 1-by-6 to each side wall at a height of between 5 and 6 feet and run a long wooden pole between the two boards. Drill a hole in each of the two trim pieces to accommodate the clothes rack.
13. Place a shelf on top of the two side pieces, if the distance is not too great.
Tags: door opening, Make sure, front back, front door, vertical pieces, your closet