Floor repair/ toilet flange removal
Help! I'm stumped! I'm a newbie at RV repair and I am removing water damaged flooring and floor joists in the bathroom (and other places) of my 20 yr old fifth wheel. I'm not sure what to do about the toilet flange. It has to be removed so I can properly fix the floor beneath it. I called Camping world and they said it is cemented (plastic welded) to the pipe stub of the sewage holding tank. If I cut the flange off just below the floor, is there going to be a way I can put in a new one in without replacing the entire sewage/black water tank? Has anyone else done this? Also, another question concerning the floor joists. I live in a very damp area (Western Washington) and I'd like to put a lasting water seal on the joists and subflooring underside. Are there any suggestions for what works best and lasts the longest? I'm strongly considering removing the vapor barrier and sub-floor insulation and coating everything I can reach with a roof seal material. (And then replacing the insulation with foam sheets and spray crack-filling foam, and replacing the vapor barrier.) Would this keep dampness out, or would it trap it against the wood? I'd appreciate any tips! (And, yes, I now have the trailer under cover and will reseal every nook and cranny on the exterior as I'm sure much of the damage came from exterior leaks... As far as the toilet flange goes, if your sure it's got ABS glue holding it, then cutting below the flange is what you can do. I usually keep as close to flange as I can, to allow as much of the 3 pipe left as possible. Some are threaded, and a sealant applied to threads that hold pretty good, so I use a big pair of channel lock pliers, turn them upside down, and use the handles/grips and spread them out and down in to slots in flange, Then I take a bar and put it between the handles and turn them with the bar, while holding handle ends in the slots good and snug. If flange doesn't turn out then, I know it isn't coming, so i cut as close to bottom of flange where it meets pipe. If new flange won't reach, cut a little more off 3 pipe, enough to add a 3 coupling, and buy a flange that fits inside the coupling. Otherwise, add a short piece of 3 between coupling and flange. As far as the floor joists go, we don't normally seal them, we just let them breath, but maybe some Thompsons water seal for decks would help somewhat, if you have a sprayer or something to apply it , that would be even better. There's always the urethane foam 2 part system as well, but that would get pricey I think. Another tip in case you get too rough. I broke the pipe out of the tank one time and put it back using fiberglass body filler like used on cars, it held for years.[/I]
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