Attaching to a concrete wall can be a challenge, especially if that attachment requires the support of any weight at all. Fastener technology in recent years has simplified things, and with a little knowledge and Tapcon-style masonry anchors, you can attach cabinets to a concrete wall with only a little more effort than attaching them to a standard frame wall. You'll need to make sure you have a drill capable of making pilot holes in concrete up to 3 inches deep. A hammer drill is preferable, but a rotary drill with a rotary masonry bit will also do the job. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
Lower Cabinets
1. Set your base cabinets as with a standard frame wall. Make sure they are level and drill holes for the fasteners through the back of the cabinet. You will need two fasteners per cabinet. Drill your holes through the top install cleat (a horizontal brace that runs at the top of the cabinet behind the back panel). Countersink your holes 1/8 deep to accommodate the thick heads on the Tapcon-style anchors.
2. Purchase two 3 inch Tapcon-style masonry anchors for each lower unit. They come in several thicknesses; use the ¼ inch diameter for best results. You will also need a 4 inch masonry bit 3/8 inch thick. Be sure to get a percussion bit for a hammer drill or a rotary bit for a standard drill.
3. Use the masonry bit to drill a shallow marker hole through each of these holes, into the concrete about ¼ inch deep. These will be your guide when you drill the full pilot hole.
4. Move the cabinets away from the wall and drill your pilot holes. You will need to drill a little deeper than the length of the fasteners. Blow the dust from the hole. Do not force the drill or you will break your bit.
5. Replace the cabinets and line them up with the pilot holes. Use the drill and the manufacturer's recommended screw tip to install one fastener through each hole. Make certain that the cabinets suck up tight to the wall.
Upper Cabinets
6. Remove doors to reduce weight. Carefully measure and mark the wall at the bottom height of your cabinet. Cut two-by-four legs to hold the cabinet in place while you are drilling.
7. Predrill your fastener holes in the cabinet before lifting it to reduce the time you will need to support the weight of the box. There are install cleats in the top and bottom of most uppers running horizontally behind the cabinet back panel. Drill three holes evenly spaced through each cleat. Remember to countersink as for lowers.
8. Lift the cabinet and place the two-by-four legs underneath to support the weight. Get some help to make sure the cabinet stays steady. Repeat the process as for lowers, marking the holes through the cabinet with the masonry bit.
9. Set the cabinet down carefully, finish drilling the pilot holes and lift the cabinet back into place. Make sure that all six fasteners are snug before removing the two-by-four legs.
Tags: pilot holes, support weight, through each, two-by-four legs, will need, back panel, cabinet back
