Building a closet door for that closet space left over after a remodel project may seem a daunting project for the average Do-It-Yourself woodworker. With precision measuring, good tools, patience and an afternoon, this project will be one you'll be proud of when you finish. Doors come in standard widths, but they are almost always the same height. Cutting a door down by an inch or so works fine in many cases; building a custom door may be the way to go in others. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
Making Stiles and Rails
1. Determine the size of your door. Measure the opening carefully at the top and bottom, and left and right sides. Insure the sides of the opening are plumb with the four foot level, and the top is level using a two foot level, or torpedo level if the opening is narrower than 2 feet. Also insure the opening is square by measuring from opposing corners - the measurements should be the same.
2. Cut eight pieces of 1/2 inch MDF, 1-1/2 inches wide for the stiles. Four pieces are shorter than the door height by 1 inch. Two pieces are equal to the door height, and the two remaining pieces are shorter than the door height by 4 inches. See the illustration.
3. With a square, measure and mark the four mid length pieces across the face of each end, exactly 1-1/2 inches from the end. The shortest pieces of MDF fit between these pieces. In a similar fashion, measure and mark the two longest pieces 1/2 inch from each end. Use tape along the lines on all four pieces to prevent glue from sticking to the MDF.
4. Apply wood glue using a roller to the marked face of a mid length piece of MDF, covering the entire surface. Do not go past the lines. Now apply glue to the face of a short piece the same way, but cover the entire surface. Align the two glued surfaces and use the brad nailer to secure the pieces with two 3/4 in. brads at each end.
5. Apply wood glue, using the roller, to the opposing face of the short piece. Apply glue to one face of another mid-length piece. Align the glued faces again and secure with two 1-1/4 inch brad nails every six inches. Turn the piece over and add additional brad nails along that side, two brad nails about every six inches. Wipe off any excess glue.
6. Glue and nail the longest piece to the side of the three pieces assembled in steps 2-5. Use a roller to spread the wood glue evenly and use two - 1 inch brad nails every six inches along the length. This cap piece extends 1/2 inch on each end of the piece and will be the edges of the door when the door is finished. Repeat steps 2-6 for the second stile.
7. Cut and assemble the rails in a similar fashion as the stiles. The main differences are the center piece, which is 1-1/2 inches longer than the outside pieces, and the cap piece, which is the same length as the longer middle piece. See the illustration for dimensioning the pieces.
8. Make a latch block. Cut three pieces of 1/2 inch MDF to 4 inches by 4 inches. Glue, using the roller to spread the wood glue on both sides of the middle piece and on one side of the outer pieces. Align carefully and secure using 1-1/4 inch brad nails in the corners and in the middle. Clean away any excess glue.
Assembling the Door
9. Cut the door panels to their finished size using the table saw. Cut the MDF or Plywood panels with the side to be finished (out) up.
10. Lay one door panel inside up on a sturdy work surface. Dry fit the rails (across the top and bottom) and the stiles, (left and right sides) with the edge pieces out. Use a mallet to gently tap the tenons on the rails into the stile mortises. The sides should line up exactly with the panel edges. Clamp the stiles to the panels.
11. Position the 4 x 4 inch piece assembled earlier in the position where the door handle will be mounted. Clamp in place to prevent movement. Trace the outline, remove the clamp and apply glue inside the tracing on the door panel, and on one side of the piece. Use the roller to apply the wood glue. Re-clamp and allow to set for 30-60 minutes.
12. Cut 1-1/2 wide inch support strips of 1/2 inch MDF to set on edge between the stiles. Use one strip about every 10 to 12 inches and one on either side of the latch block.
13. Cut one final piece of MDF to use as a story pole. Lay the support strips in place on the inside the door panel and mark their positions on the panel. Make a story pole by aligning one end of the strip with one edge of the door and marking the support strip positions on it. Also mark the latch block position.
14. Prepare for final glue up by having all the clamps and cauls ready. Tape around the entire outside edge of the stiles and rails to prevent glue squeeze out from sticking. First apply glue to the motises and tenons using the brush, then along the edges inside the tracings for the rails and stiles. Lay the rails and stiles in place, joining the mortise and tenon corners. Mist the surfaces with water slightly before putting them together.
15. Brush polyurethane glue onto the door panel inside the tracings for the support pieces. Mist with water and lay the support pieces in place. Add polyurethane glue to the tops of the rails, stiles, support pieces and latch block. Mist slightly.
16. Place the second door panel on top of the first and align all the edges with the rails and stiles. Place cauls across the support pieces using the story pole to locate them. Clamp the cauls and add additional cauls for the edges. Add more clamps and allow the glue to set overnight.
17.Remove the clamps, cauls and painter's tape once the glue has set. Carefully remove any remaining glue squeeze out with sandpaper. Polyurethane glue expands a little as it sets up, so some glue squeeze out should be expected, but most should be on the tape, not the wood.
Tags: brad nails, door panel, wood glue, every inches, latch block
